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There is something reassuring about the time honored tradition of Apple Butter making. For generations, it has always marked the passage into the fall season at Capon. This year, the hard work of turning more than 100 bushels of Golden Delicious apples into a tasty spread took five days. These efforts create enough apple butter for next season’s regular daily guest use, the coveted golf tourney and Bingo prizes as well as the gifts to share with family and friends.
The tradition of homemade apple butter goes back to Capon’s early days in the 1940s. In the beginning, it was made outdoors under a lean-to near the Playhouse. Later, a one story block building, known as the Summer Kitchen, was built in the lower parking lot passed the Main House. In 1985, Capon crews tore it down and replaced it with a 2-story structure that also hosts a canning kitchen. Since that time, there have been two brick fireplaces to hold two apple butter kettles.
The entire process, overseen by kitchen worker & Capon canner Ann Holliday, is very labor intensive. A crew of 8-10 co-workers peel, core and snit the apples. After being washed in Capon water, they are then added to Capon water already in the 40-gallon copper kettles. Wood fires are built underneath the kettles and co-workers (and guests!) take turns stirring the fragrant boiling apple mixture with wooden paddles. After about 5 ½ hours, the mixture turns light brown– that’s when it’s time to gradually add sugar. Then the last ingredient– vanilla, is stirred until it is well-blended. Because the apple mixture must not boil too rapidly, you have to stir it constantly until it thickens and water is absorbed out.
The process itself is a guest draw as folks like the feeling of being part of the production of this sought after substance. Pictured left is long time friend Kevin Ambrose, who himself got “Tom Sawyered” last year, giving the dedicated crew a period of relief.
Besides the “regular kind” that most people enjoy, a “sugar free” version is also available. This happens to be my personal favorite, especially when spread over a homemade Capon roll, right out of the coal-fired brick oven. Hmmmmm- can’t wait to take another bite.
Author: Jonathan Bellingham, 3rd generation family member
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